Thursday, 6 May 2010

Lady Ga Ga 2010 Brit awards

Image found at http://www.glamourvanity.com/Images/lady-gaga-2010-brit-awards-winner.jpg
Absolutely loved Lady Gaga's outfit for the 2010 Brit awards. It was a lacy creation that covered her from head to toe, even part of her face. It revealed and concealed with great impact. The sculptured head piece was designed by Philip Treacy. Stunning!

Magma book store, Northern Quarter

Image found at http://www.manchesterad.com/1mg/areaguide/nq/MAGMA.jpg. Magma book store is fantastic for artists/designers. It stocks every creative magazine you can think of and books too. Also sells quirky gifts and stationery etc. Definitely worth a visit, situated in the trendy Northern Quarter, Manchester.

Leon's Fabric Store Chorlton

Image found at http://www.farm2.static.flickr.com/1324/682697178_54a3eb3fd2.jpg Leon's is a great fabric store located in Chorlton, Manchester. It stocks a good range of material, threads, and garment patterns etc. I recently bought some Bennet's silk from here. They do not stock it, but have a sample book for you to look at and place an order. It arrived 2 days later, so did'nt have to wait too long. It was worth the wait as it is such good quality. Recommend a trip here if you are planning on dress-making etc. Also have a good range of fabrics for home furnishings.

Matthew Williamson Urbis Exhibition

Image found at http://www.urbis.org.uk/pictures/designmuseum-matthew-williamson-exhibition-4-design-muse...
This exhibition took my breath away. As soon as I walked in I was hit by the bright colours, pinks, turquoise, orange , yellow, green etc, etc. The clothes were stunning, especially the beaded detail on some dresses, but also the print on the garments and the shape and cut. I couldn't fault it. There was a huge mood board as you first walked in showing all of Matthew Williamson's inspiration for the show. You notice that he travels all over the world by the various things he has collected. There was a lot of references to India and Cuba.

I was really excited by seeing his sketchbooks in the glass cabinets, they were fantastic. Some were nostalgic as there were pictures of Adam Ant! This took me back a few years. There were further print designs displayed on the walls which had been digitally produced, again stunning. It was really good to see how he develops his research and inspiration. Would love to see this exhibition again.

Cal Lane

Image found at http://www.ldomdesigns.files.wordpress.com/2009/06/piclanewheelbarrowblog-746899jpg Cal Lane is a sculptor whose work excites me. I love the fact that her artworks are formed from mundane waste such as oil drums and metal objects e.g. wheelbarrows and shovels. She transforms them into, lacy, ornate metal artworks by welding intricate patterns into them but they still retain the perfect shape/outline of the object, a sort of silhouette. The bold outline of the object contrasts beautifully with the smaller detail contained within it. I am drawn to the rawness of the steel. It gives a sense of earthiness, a sort of organic quality. Its masculine and feminine at the same time. Unique!

Stewart Russell

Image found at http://www.designsabroad.com/designers/000011/portrait.jpg
As I am drawn to layers and transparency in my design work I decided to look at the work of contemporary artist Stuart Russell. He is a textile designer producing hand printed fabrics. His ideas for design projects are usually inspired from his obsession of traditional textiles and other contemporary artists. He gathers and collects random information as his starting point. HIs backing cloths from his studio become pieces of art that that he now sells. HIs layered prints are beautiful along with the composition. The more you look at the prints you start to see little bits of intricate detail, and shapes etc. that are hidden under the layers of paint. He designs print for clothing and interiors.

Monday, 3 May 2010

Paper and Cloth


Paper and Cloth are a surface pattern design studio producing designs for womens, interiors, stationery and kids. They focus on designers with good illustration skills and promote them individually. 'We promote each of our designers under their own name because we passionately believe in promoting talented designers to industry and clients being able to commission specific individuals.' Image and quote accessed at http://www.paperandcloth.net/

I was lucky enough to meet the director, Jennie Rivers, in April 2010. She gave me some good advice about the industry and how her studio works, and also feedback on my own work.

Most of the designers at Paper and Cloth use Illustrator and vector based graphics over Photshop. She believes this is the way forward.

Most work is hand drawn/ illustrated, then scanned and worked into. They like to keep the hand drawn effect.

Good drawing skills are an advantage/bonus in the design world and you can make good money from this.

The Industry is very competitive and therefore she prefers quality over quantity. Jennie Rivers informed me that she would much rather her designers take longer to produce a design to get that special quality.

Visit trade shows to keep up with trends, colours etc.

Network e.g. blogs, portfolio, studio visits. Link your blog to as many people/designers as possible to get noticed and promote yourself, it will get you work.

Research is vital to stay ahead of trends. Look what is going on in the world around you e.g. politics, economics, mood, colours, trends - these are all influences on the industry.

Clients always want something new and edgy.

Buyers at trade fairs have a range plan, direction, colour palette and an open to buy policy.

The designers at Paper and Cloth are expected to do 15-20 designs per week and expect to sell 30-40% of these.

People are fickle so push different looks of illustration but keep your own style.

Designers at Paper and Cloth are promoted under their own name.

Think about how a studio will notice you -research them, illustrate your surface pattern skills, graphic balance and colour balance.

Creative Commons - go online here to get a license for protecting your work - very important.

If you are showing your portfolio to and agency/studio then do not let them take it out of the room as they might make copies of it!

If you do free-lance work you are likely to wait 90 days for payment.

Stand out - always look at what is developing, keep learning, and stay up to date with computer programmes.

Jennie Rivers also works an agent and takes 40% of the sale of a design. Designs sell for £375 in Europe, so the free-lancer receives £275 of this, and $650 in America where the free-lancer will receive $444.

Be versatile - if you are work loose e.g. mark-making then try doing a tight paisley or russian folklore style so that you attract different people making you more employable.

Animal prints are very commercial and good sellers.

Do not let your portfolio be too cool - buyers will not go for it! If you send your CV out to studio's etc, make and impression i.e. think about the presentation of it. Perhaps make it into a brochure.

Feedback on my work

Florals - good to be versatile, draw different ways - for gift cards, fashion, interiors.

Show flexibility as a surface pattern designer.

Illustrations in my sketchbook would easily go into illustrator and would not have to be changed much - keep the hand drawn effect.

I can charge more money for hand drawing designs initially.

I should look at illustration and graphic magazines to influence my work e.g. key lines in illustrator. Scan in work and work with key lines.

Likes my drawings and style - different.

Work digitallly - trace work to scan in and make it clear. Take elements and use lassoo tool to move things around.

Get work to look visual - put into garment shapes - sells it.

Look at Print Source trade show.

Research Carolina York - she hand paints designs. Also Lush Lampshades and Angie Lewin (artist in Norfolk).

My meeting with Jennie Rivers was was very interesting and informative. She was great to talk to and ask questions, and told us we could email her for any further information or advice. She complimented my work and style which was an added bonus!





















Running your own business

I wish to run my own surface print business, for fashion and interior textiles.

I have done some research into what this would involve.


First I would need to look at how to acquire finance. Having carried out research on the business link website I have discovered that there are certain grants/loans available. It seems there are various different grants on offer but none seem to fit my criteria although there are small business loans that can be applied for depending on which area you live in etc. Some loans are specifically aimed at women only starting up in business as long as you have a good business plan and references and would eventually be able to provide jobs for at least one or two people. The following information is taken from the Northwest Regional Development Agency - Finance for business accessed at http://www.nwdabusinessfinance.co.uk/small-business-loans/eligibility


'The Small Loans for Businesses scheme is open to anyone in the Northwest - covering Cheshire, Merseyside, Greater Manchester, Lancashire and Cumbria.

It aimed at people already running or looking to start one of the following ventures:

  • New or small business
  • Trading arms of charities
  • Social enterprise
  • Not-for-profit organisation

The main criteria is you can show that you have tried to obtain funding from traditional sources - bank or building society for example, and been rejected. It maybe due to a poor credit score, lack of security, insufficient track record or plans that traditional lenders consider too risky.

Successful applicants MUST be able to demonstrate:

  • Good management
  • They are not an undertaking in difficulty
  • Viable business plan
  • An ability to service the borrowing required
  • An inability to obtain sufficient funding from conventional sources and that the absence of such funding is exposing the business to the risk of failure to achieve its growth potential.
  • The Loan will not be used to pay down existing borrowings.
  • Through their business plans, should be able to demonstrate a positive impact on jobs, either through job creation or preservation.

As long as you've got a workable business plan, with the potential to create new jobs - even if it's just one or two - you can apply. You can apply for any size of loan between £3,000 and £50,000.

The scheme is open to everyone, and we particularly welcome applications from women, minority groups and businesses in deprived areas.'


The Arts Council also offers bursaries/grants for arts related activities of which I am in the process of applying for online. The Arts Council can be accessed at http://www.artscouncil.org.uk/

To enable me to produce hand printed designs, I would need a studio to work from along with the following equipment and facilities :-

Print table for screen printing, screens, an area to store the screens, an area to wash screens, an exposing unit, storage space for paints, squeegees, emulsion, drying unit, dyes, fabrics, transfer press, steamer, etc.

I could acquire most of this equipment second hand off Ebay but it would still be fairly costly and quite a large investment in the beginning. The best option would be to work from home in the beginning. This would keep costs at a minimum, as I start to build my business, and I would not have to worry about paying studio rent. I already have a small studio in my garage large enough for sketching and working on my design process. There is not enough room for printing but instead I could pay for the use of printing facilities to produce my final designs/collections.

There is an open print studio in Salford called Hot Bed Press where I could carry out my printing for a small fee. I have researched the printing facilities they offer, their costs and opening times which are shown below. Images and info accessed at http://www.hotbedpress.org/show_title.phtml?category=[1]about%20us&ref=0
photo courtesy of Ewa James


Hot Bed Press (HBP) is a not-for-profit open access print workshop, dedicated to supporting anyone with an interest in printmaking, and in promoting printmaking to a wider audience.

The studio is located in the Chapel Street Cultural Quarter of Salford where it shares premises with two other studio groups, (Cow Lane and Suite) and a very handy metalsmith (J. Cocker).


Our facilities include equipment for screen printing, etching, drypoint, collagraphs, relief printing and other related processes. Our screenprinting is waterbased with two light boxes for photo-screenprinting and a darkroom facility for coating and exposing screens. In our etching area we have nitric acid for steel and zinc plates as well as ferric chloride and now also saline sulphate. Our aquatint is 'traditional' resin.


inking slab by Ewa

Opening times

Monday 10.00am - 5.00pm


Tuesday 10.00am - 5.00pm

Wednesday 10.00am - 5.00pm

Thursday 10.00am - 9.00pm

Friday 10.00am - 5.00pm

We also open one Wednesday evening a month until 6pm - 9pm, (usually the 1st Wednesday), and one Saturday a month; 11am - 4pm, (usually the last saturday of the month).

We have a booking system for our screenbeds. It is also recommended to ring to say when you are coming in for other processes as it help us plan ahead.


Inking guns by Ewa

studio hire /materials

Members are charged an hourly rate of £1.50. A Studio Hire Cardshould be purchased for £12.00 in advance, which is then used as a credit system as the hours are used. This makes us one of the cheapest print workshops in the country!

In addition the workshop has specialist materials such as inks, printmaking papers, metal, lino etc. which can be purchased with the use of a Materials Voucher.

The vouchers are for £10.00, and exact amounts will be crossed off each session as materials are used. Materials are charged at very reasonable rates to encourage and support printmakers.

Members are always welcome to bring their own materials in. (There are also plenty of materials such as degreasers, grounds, white spirit etc. that are provided free of charge by Hot Bed Press.) This is a simple system that means no fiddling around with money at the end of each session.

In 2009 we scrapped the screen hire system and replaced it with a more straightforward charge for photo-emulsion, (£6.00 for processing a large screen and £3.00 for processing a small screen). You can still have a screen for up to a month but screen hire is not charged separately. (We have over £1,00 worth of screens and in 2009 invested over £800 in new screens!) We are aiming to invest in even more screens to satisfy demand in 2010.

Members are welcome to bring their own screens in, (although we are very limited to space to store them and screens are stored at Hot Bed at the owners' risk.)



When talking to other designers about business e.g. Alex Russell and Jenny Rivers, they informed me of a few pitfalls I must be aware of to ensure my business succeeds. These include :-

Copyright - Make sure you have a copyright license and display it on designs so that they cannot be copied. And never ever copy anybody else's designs as you can get into a lot of trouble for this and it would be very costly.

Plan - Have a time limit to make your business work say, two years, and if it is not working then change it.

Net-work - Send your portfolio out to as many studios as possible to get yourself known and also arrange visits to them. Keep your blog up-dated, with good material, and link it to others - a great way of getting noticed and promoting yourself. Let potential clients know you have one so they can get an idea of your stuyle and see your work.

Trade Fairs - visit trade fairs to keep up with trends and research your market.

Agents - get yourself a reputable agent when starting out as they can take your work to trade fairs and sell it for you to keep costs down. Always read their contracts to make sure you agree to it, commission fee etc.

Work - learn to work fast as you have to produce lots of designs in a week to make money!

Adapt - Always do what the client asks for whether you like it or not.

Briefs - If you cannot finish a brief on time then let the client know as soon as possible so as not to disappoint them too much and so that you can work something out together.

Dpi - If sending images of your work out to potential clients, always use 75 or 150 dpi, never 300, so they cannot steal your ideas!

Free-lance - Remember that if you work free-lance then you will not get paid till you have invoiced your client who then could take a month or so to pay because they also may not have been paid. So you could be waiting quite a few weeks/months for money.

Help and Support - Business Link offers advice on taxes, returns, and payrolls etc and also ECCA, Enterprise Centre for the Creative Arts. ECCA also offers advice on pricing, marketing, invoicing, getting paid on time etc. ECCA can be accessed at http://www.ecca-london.org/