As part of my Design Practice I have recently visited Dianne Harrison Designs Studio in Cheadle, Cheshire. It has grown to become one of the worlds's leading design studios producing inspiring and relevant surface designs for textiles, wall coverings, rugs, stationery and apparel.
The studio was everything I had imagined a good working environment to be, lots of light, good working space, lively and had a nice atmosphere. There were roughly six designers working there on Cad and AVA. All around the studio were references and inspiration for surface patterns including an impressive library. I had been fortunate enough to have a chat with Greg Threlwall, the Studio Mananger, about the textile design industry and about how he runs his studio. I asked him the following questions:-
Q. What working methods do you use, hand-print/CAD or a combination?
A. They start off by hand printing design ideas and then scan them into CAD to create repeat patterns with the AVA programme. Some of his designers actually paint their designs with watercolours for floral designs first. It seems to depend on how each individual designer likes to work putting their own unique style to it. The lady that painted these designs had previously worked for Laura Ashley. Some use block print methods and others draw their designs. They also have a book/samples of textures to scan into CAD if needed. Greg told us that seven years ago eveything was done by hand, painted, and told us how much times had changed with designs being done on CAD now. He also said how producing designs on CAD keeps the costs down as the designs can go straight to the manufacturer when finished and then put into production fast.
Q. Do you ever embellish you're designs? What techniques do you use?
A. They don't but Greg said if you want to embellish your own designs there is no reason why you shouldnt. At this point Greg told us that we should enjoy our work and explore techniques. He did however say that some of their wallpaper designs had been stiched into and then been scanned. He said this was a longer process but CAD alone could not get this effect.
Q. Where do you get your inspiration from and how do you generate ideas for designs?
A. Look in shops, everywhere, everything, films, CD covers, you never stop looking. Always carry a camera and take photos. He suggested taking a look down King's Street in London and going in the Conran Shop. Another good store to visit is Harvey Nichols, look in their pattern books for inspiration. Also the Northern Quarter in Manchester, shops such as Oklahoma, Magma, Afflecks Palace on Oldham Street. Even the little craft markets. Charity shops.
Q. Do you work to a brief? If so do you set this or your agent/market research/trends?
A. They work to briefs in a loose kind of way. They really only work for themselves, creating designs and then selling them on but some clients will tell them things they don't like e.g. in Korea they do not like pears?!
Q. Do you work to current trends/themes/colour pallettes?
A. No bescause its not really their way of designing. They do have trend books but still tend to go with their own colour palletes and themes. Greg showed us one of the many sketchbooks on his desk containing references to colour schemes that he happened to come accross in magazines, books etc that he liked and saved. He says they are not slaves to the industry instead they wish to put their own qualities/stamp on their designs otherwise they would lose originality.
Q. How did you start off in the business?
A. Greg did a degree in Fashion and Textiles in Surrey. He exhibited his final show in Covent Garden and was lucky enough to be approached by Today Interiors (wallpaper company) and served an apprenticeship with them. He then took his current job with Dianne Harrison. Dianne Harrison did her degree at Manchester. She started her own business 25 years ago working from home. Her husband became a salesperson selling her work all around the world.
Q. Do you use an agent to sell your work?
A. No, they have salespeople working for them who travel the world visiting clients selling their designs. Greg advised us that if we were to think about having an agent in the future then we must find out how often they actually go out selling our designs because it could only be a couple of times a year and this just isn't enough. We would also have to take into consideration how much money the agent would actually take off the sale of the design/s.
Q. Where do you exhibit your designs? Which trade fairs do you go to?
A. They sometimes show their designs in the odd giftware fair such as Printsource but always take their designs to Heimtextil, Indigo and Surtex.
Q. How many designs do you aim to generate per week? Does this vary? If so, why?
A. Varies a lot. It could be as many as five or twenty-five. It depends on the complexity of the design and also the person who is doing it. All designs are different. Some only have a few simple shapes/elements and be produced in an hour. If an employee has had a week off it can take them at least three days to get back into the flow of designing!
Q. Which market do you design for? Fashion, Interiors etc? High/med/low end?
A. All. These include wallpaper, bedding, shower curtains (of which there is a huge market!), occasionally plates, cups. They do most of their designs for bedding. They design for childrens textiles also and Greg told us that it is very difficult to produce these designs as you are up against Barbie, Disney and Bob the Builder etc because this is what children want. You have to appeal to the parents as they are the ones with the money| These designs must have a special quality to compete in the market.
Q. Who are your clients?
A. Everybody and anybody, people who go to them and they will also approach clients.
Q. Is the global economy having an impact on your business?
A. Yes a little but changes all the time, peaks and troughs not too different from normal.
Q. How much are your designs worth/sell for?
A. The designs are not worth anything until sold! We generally charge the same amount for each design. We take into account how much time they take to design, wages, heat, lighting etc.
Q. Do you outsource any part of production?
A. Not really. They have their own printer. They do have free-lance designers working for them.
Q. Who is your target market when designing?
A. Mainly bedding but everything, everybody! You must take into account the world market when designing.
Q. Do you feel you have a particular niche in the market and do you ever divert from it?
A. Yes we have designs that are familiar to people but also ones that people are scared to death of! A good variety. Sometimes you can re-introduce a design that you had created say three years ago thet nobody was interested in then, but will now sell. Fashions are constantly changing as well as people's tastes and needs.
Q. What's the best advice you've had or could give us to guide us in the future?
A. Always be passionate about waht you are designing and put your own signature on it. Don't worry too much about what other people think because they might see something in your designs that you do not. Have variety in your portfolio e.g. geometrics, florals, graphics etc and show off your drawing skills. Greg mentioned copyright issues and told us that if we want to copy a design you must change five elements within it.
Overall the visit was very informative and a thoroughly enjoyable experience. I feel I have a great insight into the industry now to take me further in the right direction. www.dianeharrison.co.uk
Thursday, 26 March 2009
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